Two simple weathering techniques for realistic wear in 1:160, 1:120, 1:220 & 1:87!
Two simple techniques make models much more realistic: drybrushing to bring out edges and details, and pigments for a light dust effect. Both methods are quick to learn and make a big visual difference with little effort.
Hello and welcome to the next How-To!
This time we look at weathering. This opens up an almost endless world of possibilities. Drybrushing, washes, pigments, oil paints, rust effects, chipping and much more can be used to give a model a realistic look.
Today, however, we focus on two simple and quick techniques that already make a big difference. We look at drybrushing and then use pigments to create a light dust effect.
Method 1: drybrushing, making details stand out!
Drybrushing is a simple technique that makes details stand out more. Applied correctly, a model looks less like a painted model and more like a real vehicle in miniature.
Preparing the paint: wipe the brush almost dry!
For this step I use Vallejo 70.990 "Light Grey". There are of course many alternatives. AMMO MIG, for example, offers special drybrushing paints, but I mostly work with the standard Vallejo colours.
Pick up some unthinned paint with a brush and then wipe about 99% of it off again on a piece of kitchen paper. Keep going until you are almost sure there is no paint left on the brush. Turn the brush regularly so no paint stays on the sides.
You now have a real "dry brush".
Drybrushing the edges: bringing out details and edges!
Now lightly sweep the almost dry brush over the edges and raised details of the model. Think of cab edges, latches, tools, logos, tyre treads and other fine details.
The remaining paint only catches on the raised areas and makes them stand out. This makes the details look much more three-dimensional and easier to see.
And that's it. A simple technique with a big effect.
Method 2: creating dust effects with pigments!
Mixing pigments: combining two shades for realistic depth!
Now we create a light dust effect, as if the vehicle had driven over dry and dusty roads.
With pigments it is best to mix at least two shades. If you use only one colour, the result often looks a bit flat. For this example I use A.MIG-3004 "Europe Earth" and A.MIG-3007 "Dark Earth" from AMMO MIG in a 50/50 ratio.
Applying pigments: on mudguards, wheel arches and horizontal surfaces!
Take a small brush and apply the pigments where dust would also collect on the real vehicle. This includes mudguards, wheel arches, rims, horizontal surfaces and other areas where dirt settles.
Apply only a small amount at first. Rub the pigments in lightly with the brush and then gently blow away the excess. It is much easier to add more pigment later than to remove too much.
Fixing pigments: sealing them permanently with fixer or clear varnish!
Finally, the pigments need to be fixed. For this I use A.MIG-3000 Pigment Fixer from AMMO MIG.
Put a small drop on the brush and let the liquid flow carefully into the areas with pigment. Alternatively, the pigments can be sealed with clear varnish.
Important: if the windows have already been made with Microscale Kristal Klear, do not apply any more clear varnish with the airbrush. The windows can turn milky, which cannot be corrected later.
And that brings us to the end of our little model building series.
Our MAN KAT1A1 Patriot is now completely finished. We painted it, made the windows, applied decals and added light weathering. You can of course refine each of these techniques further and adapt them to your own style, but as a start they already give a very good foundation.
Have fun building models! We would love to see the results of your work. Feel free to send us your models via Facebook or by email to info@panzer-shop.nl.
For this How-To series we use a model from our Bundeswehr series in 1:160 scale: the MAN KAT1A1 Patriot. Our own decals in 1:160 & 1:120 are ideal for finishing your models.
Thank you very much and hopefully speak to you soon!
Kevin Boogaard
Founder of Panzer-ShopNL
