Step-by-step guide to colours and details (1:160, 1:120, 1:220 & 1:87)
Painting model railway vehicles realistically takes four steps: applying the base colour, painting the camouflage pattern, detailing tyres and small parts and finally painting the lights. In this guide I use a Bundeswehr vehicle in 1:160 scale to show how you can get a detailed result with an airbrush or a brush.
Hello everyone and welcome to my online painting workshop!
I'm Kevin, founder of Panzer-ShopNL, and today I'd like to show you how I paint our models. For every step I list the materials I use, so you can easily find them yourself. In this workshop I work with water-based paints, but you can of course also use enamels. I apply the base colour with an airbrush, but many steps can be done just as well with a brush.
For this workshop I'm painting a MAN KAT1A1 10t 8x8 with Patriot MIM-104 air defence system in 1:160 scale. This is a Bundeswehr vehicle with camouflage. An NVA vehicle would be much simpler, as it usually only needs to be painted green, after which a few details are painted. However, I want to show the complete process so that as many model builders as possible can benefit.
Important: nothing I show here is set in stone. If you prefer other colours, tools or techniques, that is absolutely fine. I'm simply showing the way of working that has given me the best results.
Applying the base colour: airbrush or brush for the first coat!
For the base colour I use Vallejo 71.093 "NATO Green". Revell 36165 "Bronze Green" is also a good alternative, for example.
In this case I don't use a primer, because our models often take paint very well without one. The resin itself gives the paint good adhesion. As long as the model is clean and free of grease, cleaned with isopropanol beforehand if needed, there are normally no adhesion problems.
Depending on the paint, a primer can still be useful or even necessary. If you want to paint the model with a brush only, I always recommend a primer. The paint will then cover better and more evenly.
And just like that we have a green model. This step is neither very exciting nor difficult. Simply fill the airbrush and get started.
Colour suggestions:
*This colour may be available from this supplier, but we have not checked this.
Painting the camouflage pattern: applying the Bundeswehr camouflage colours!
For the camouflage colours I use Revell Aqua Color 36106 "Tar Black" and 36184 "Leather Brown". Similar shades are of course available from other brands as well. Which colours you use is ultimately a matter of personal preference. These shades match the camouflage of the Bundeswehr and the Royal Netherlands Army, among others, and in my experience give very good results.
It is important to thin the paints with a suitable thinner. For Revell Aqua Color, "Aqua Color Mix" or simply water works. The paint should not be too thin, but roughly a little thicker than milk. The right consistency is crucial. If the paint is too thin, it runs quickly. If it is too thick, fine details can disappear under the paint.
Here I start by painting the outlines of the black camouflage areas. The Bundeswehr and the Royal Netherlands Army use a fixed camouflage pattern that is easy to follow. You can find many reference photos and examples on the Panzerbaer website.
A good, fine brush is a great help in this step.
The most important thing in this step is to keep your hands as steady as possible, so the lines run exactly where you want them. This is easiest when you create as many contact points as possible with a firm surface.
Take a look at the photo above. I rest both palms and the back of the model on the table. My left ring finger and little finger also stay in contact with the tabletop. Where possible, I also rest the little finger of my right hand. In addition, I touch the model with the ring finger of my right hand. This way hands, model and table are all connected.
These extra support points give much more stability and make drawing clean, even lines a lot easier.
Once the outlines are done, we fill in the black camouflage areas. The advantage of this method is that you get clean, clearly defined lines. If drawing the outlines separately is too much work for you, you can of course fill in the areas directly.
Then we repeat the same process with the brown camouflage colour.
Painting tyres and small parts: tools, chains and spare wheel!
Now on to the tyres. For these I use Vallejo 70.995 "German Grey". It's my favourite colour for tyres. As before, I thin the paint with a suitable thinner, but a little less than for the camouflage colours. A slightly thicker paint runs less quickly and is easier to control.
In this step too, give your hand as many support points on the table and the vehicle as possible. Hold the model in a position that is comfortable for you.
The easiest way to paint the tyres is to draw small half circles downwards. Since the underside of the tyre is clearly visible, you paint towards yourself. Turn the model whichever way feels most comfortable. This lets you work very precisely along the rims.
This is also a good time to paint other details such as shovels, tools, chains and other small parts. And don't forget the spare wheel!
Headlights and rear lights: realistic lights with a toothpick!
For the lights I use Vallejo 70.908 "Carmine Red", 70.911 "Light Orange" and 70.883 "Silver Grey". I don't thin these colours, I use them straight from the bottle.
Put a small drop of paint on your palette and take a toothpick. Dip the tip lightly into the paint and then place it straight onto the model. Wait about a second and pull the toothpick away again.
This creates a clean, round dot, because you are actually transferring a tiny drop of paint onto the model. For rectangular lights or reflectors, you can move the toothpick slightly from left to right. Small mistakes or rough edges are easy to correct afterwards with the dry side of the toothpick.
And that's it! The model is now fully painted.
You can of course now add matching decals, windows or weathering. If you want to seal the model with a coat of clear varnish, I recommend applying the decals first and then the varnish. Make the windows with Microscale Kristal Klear only after the varnish.
I hope this workshop was useful and gave you some handy tips. Maybe we'll see each other again in the next How-To!
For this How-To series we use a model from our Bundeswehr series in 1:160 scale: the MAN KAT1A1 Patriot. Our own decals in 1:160 & 1:120 are ideal for finishing your models.
Kevin Boogaard
Founder of Panzer-ShopNL
